Maybe you study mosaics online OR you're eager to begin doing mosaic wall art and you'd like to jump in and begin executing on your mosaic vision?
Either way, you may be in need of a MOSAIC ART STUDIO SUPPLY LIST. The list below is geared specifically for those who work with opalescent and iridescent art glass. Find everything you need at the MOSAIC ARTIST SHOP, with fulfillment by Amazon or your favorite reseller.
It includes almost everything you'll need to create your first piece. Except: your frame and base is something we recommend searching for "in person" so you can inspect it for any flaws/seals/water-tight attributes that will enhance your piece.
GENERAL STUDIO EQUIPMENT:
Underfoot Tarp for Working Area (heavier vinyl/canvas suggested for easy sweep-up).
*Stepladder or Footstool for reaching higher areas if working larger
Broom/Dustbin combo (for use in the studio only; so tiny shards and glass bits in the broom do not transfer to other parts of your home)
Work Table/Desk (basically, a solid support base for your frame so it will be set at the right level for you to work on it comfortably without stretching, crouching, or otherwise wrenching your back into odd positions for long periods of time).
*Small boxes, plastic storage containers, etc. to collect previously-cut pieces of glass and/or embellishments that you may like to classify/store for later use or in a current project.
WORKING MOSAIC ART TOOLS AND IMPLEMENTS:
Goggles/protective eyewear to wear during cutting of glass/placements, etc.
Thinner Gloves/hand protection that can be worn during pickup/placement of glass until you become comfortable and truly confident working without them.
“Leponitt” Wheeled Glass Tile Cutter or Nipper (or other high-quality brand snippers/nippers/cutters for thinner sheet glass and pre-cut tiles).
Extra blades that fit the cutter of your choice. (Should come with removal tool).
*Some people work with other types of glass cutters, such as “glass scorers” but beginners will feel most comfortable using the hand-held snippers.
Tweezers/pinchers or other tools for placing small pieces of glass until you are comfortable placing with your hands.
Staple Remover; for “undoing” or “removing” glass pieces off the mosaic.
Flathead screwdriver; for “undoing” or “removing” glass pieces off the mosaic.
Q-tips, Cotton Buds, etc. for adding glues and adhesives to the back of your glass pieces.
“Throwaway” smaller plastic or paper containers for holding glues and adhesives during the working session.
Pencils/”Sharpie”-style pens or markers for initial drawing in (pencil) and finalizing designs and compositions on the base (pen).
Adhesive! “Weldbond” or similar products of clear-drying adhesive that adhere best to glass and wood (or your base material). YOUR ADHESIVE MUST BE SPECIFIED AS CLEAR-DRYING; be prepared that it will appear white at first (and this can linger several days depending on project technique).
Cleanup rag for removing adhesive from hands during work session.
“Work coat," jumpsuit, or other protective clothing, to wear during work to protect clothing from glue, glass, etc.
BANDAIDS/small bandages and Betadine/soap/healing ointment! From time to time, as you get more confident in glass placement, you may get small cuts on your hands, especially if you are working without gloves.
FRAME AND BASE CONSIDERATIONS (may require a handyperson/carpenter to finalize): Once again, we recommend NOT buying this online, but purchasing it "in person" to inspect it for its appropriateness for your mosaic art work.
Must Have: A solid picture frame (or painting or old mirror frame; high-quality antique or vintage frames can work well). The frame must ultimately support the considerable addition of weight of glass, cut tiles, etc. Most likely do plan to repaint the frame after the mosaic is finished as it can become compromised by stray glue, grout, any paints, dirt, etc. during the working sessions. OR thoroughly protect the frame BEFORE starting the mosaic, using strips of plastic, masking tapes, etc. Note that the “inner seam” around the inside of the frame will be exposed to glues, dyes, etc. and may need to be re-painted after the piece is done.
Remember that the “inner frame” going around the edges of your mosaic must be highly sealed/tight so it does not take in grout/misting water, etc.
Check for tight seams on the inner frame and on the back of frame between backing/base and frame itself. Reinforce the back of frame with brackets if necessary. No part of the front/back of frame should be loose, moveable, wobbly, shaky, etc.
Consider installing the back of the frame with any heavy-duty hanging hardware before setting out, and orient your design composition in the right direction based on the hardware behind the frame (i.e. will the frame hang horizonally or vertically?).
Remember that a very, very heavy piece of mosaic art can be subject to “falling off the wall” if not properly fixed. The force of a fall could destroy all of your work as the pieces of glass can be forced off the “puzzle” and very challenging to fix in place again.
Sometimes it’s better to consider displaying a heavy mosaic on a free-standing easel, up against a wall or embedded into the wall (i.e. via a backsplash, etc.).
PAINTING THE BASE:
Acrylic Home/Decor Paint: Decide on a background paint color which you will be working over and covering with glass. White acrylic paint (regular house paint is fine) over wood (or your base material) is recommended so that you can visualize the composition easily as you work; and white will show through any more transparent glass, enhancing its color. Remember that nobody will see the white background once you have placed your glass over it and grouted it. It just gives you a visual base (like paper for drawing) and will help you visualize how grout may look once you have glued everything in.
PROTECTING THE BASE/BACK OF FRAME:
Consider “sealing” the back of your base with a water-based sealant so that later on, water, humidity, heat, dryness, etc. in the climate will not compromise the base you’re working on.
GROUTING TOOLS:
Pre-mixed grout (easiest and best) OR grout powder (plaster/cement) to be mixed with water and a “binder”; it helps make the powdered water and grout mix more cohesive. Grout with a binder (acrylic-based only!) in it will have longevity and be easier to spread and work with—ask at your local hardware store for a recommended binding product(s). This might be referred to as a thickener (once again, use only acrylic-based products, no oil!) It’s best to gain advisement at your local supplier of powdered plaster/cement, etc. for appropriate art grouting products.
Protective cover for hair during grouting (shower cap, hair towel, etc.)
Protective cover for the working surface under the mosaic frame. The protective covering should be extending beyond your working area (this is to protect your flooring from stray grout, flying bits of unanchored glass, etc.). It’s best to put the mosaic on the ground/floor and not a raised surface as you work. You will be exerting a lot of pressure on to the surface. Lay the tarp/covering down and consider a towel for your knees for cushioning as you work in the grout.
Plastic Gloves (form-fitting works best); grout is not necessarily dangerous but can be very drying to skin. Have several backup pairs as the glass can sometimes tear the plastic gloves.
Spatula, stirrers (not plastic; they usually break due to the thick grout).
Wirey small brush(es) and/or toothbrushes to help wisk drying grout off the top of the glass during grouting.
Not-linty rags (no cellulose sponges!) for helping wipe grout off the top of the glass during grouting.
Plastic, metal or other “throwaway” bowls for holding/mixing grout; the bowls are very hard to clean after use when the remnants of grout have hardened.
*Pigment powder for coloration of grout if desired
Plastic or rubber-edged “grout spreaders” or “trowels” in various sizes. This will be something you may want to choose in person to determine your most comfortable tools. You will inevitably want to use a smaller trowel for tiny and more delicate areas of the mosaic.
A fine mister for water and/or vinegar/water combinations to help polish grout off the surface of the glass after grouting.
White vinegar to help acidify the water a bit and help polish up glass during/after grouting.
*Acrylic/watercolor paint in various colors (if painting over grout or coloring into grout becomes desired).
ARTISTIC GLASS SUPPLIES FOR MOSAIC DESIGNS (as specifically taught in the "How To Do Mosaic Art in the Chinoiserie Style" online course).
You could certainly have thicker options of glass and other materials included depending on your vision but use of those is not covered in the course above.
2-4 mm thick “art glass” in sheets – opalescent, iridescent, opaque, “wispy,” “streaky,” etc. (all are terms you will see when ordering sheet glass and/or pre-cut tiles; you must verify with the seller the transparency level of the glass you are ordering. Please see the accompanying “How to Order Art Glass and Favored Suppliers” article included at https://the-mosaic-artist-shop.myshopify.com/
2-4 mm thick “art glass” “mosaic tile,” etc. in pre-cut squares
(Note: you can choose much thicker glass and mix with it with much thinner in the same mosaic; but be prepared for the final “look” to be more textured/varied; i.e. when you run your hand across the mosaic some areas will be more elevated than others and may alter it visually). It will also be more challenging to grout such a piece.
*Don’t forget that your local mirror/glass-cutting shop can possibly cut your sheet glass into specifically-sized square pieces if you desire or you cannot find pre-cut tiles in a glass that you like.
EMBELLISHMENTS FOR MOSAIC ART PIECES
“Jewels” or other embellishments such as solid costume or chunky jewelry (not too wirey or with small filaments, etc. as this may too easily get covered/obscured with grout). Also consider “found” or “sentimental” items – bits of ceramic, resin items, stones, etc. Rhinestones, sparkling chandelier pieces and so on. Always consider the longevity of the item to be placed and if it’s of a material that can stand the test of time (and moisture from the grouting process). Do not use embellishments that can/will TARNISH or TURN GREEN (unless that’s the look you want!). The best options are always those that are flat on the back as they will adhere best to the base or to other pieces of glass in the mosaic. Find these one-of-a-kind and unique items at: local flea markets, yard sales, charity shops, thrift stores, Ebay.com, Etsy.com.
*Note here: with regard to jewelry, you’ll want to remove protruding bits (or have removed by a jeweler or handy-person; get a quote first! Jewelers can charge way too much for this service!). So remove the little bits that render the jewel “not flat.” Ideally any embellishments you work with should be totally flat on the back. Some jewels may have hooks sticking out from the sides (i.e. in a necklace where components were connected) and ideally you can remove those; However if you cannot, the hooks can be grouted over, and you can work to show only the “surface of the stone” of the jewel.
While this list is not exhaustive, it should provide you with an idea of the tools and supplies you will need to set up your mosaic art studio.